Meow.
Jessica and I spent three months in the bush of Alaska this summer and hoped to see brown bears, but never saw one. Now, in the big city of Peru, we finally meet.
The street where our B&B was located.
Shellfish, fish and chicken are the most common menu items in the city. Most dishes come with a side of rice and/or fried yucca or potatoes, and maybe a few veggies. The question of the day is - what water was used to wash the veggies and can my stomach handle it? At most restaurants you have to buy your own water and it comes in two forms.... with gas (carbonated) and without gas. Both options run around two bucks a bottle. It's wise to buy a big gallon jug in the store for just a dollar more and lug it around with you all day. It's an awakening having to buy or produce your own drinking water every day.
Peru has hundreds, if not thousands, of variety of potatoes and corn. Quinoa is also prevalent and comes in a variety of colours. These staples are what fueled the Incas. Inca agriculture was very sophisticated and one of our bed and breakfast hosts taught me the ways in which they would preserve their potatoes. From what I interpreted from our conversation... they would cure them for long periods of time in caves or underwater in 'special' rivers, and then dry with earthen fire pits. When finished the potatoes would last for decades and only had to be re-hydrated to eat. The Incas terraced the mountains with farm fields so that they could maximize irrigation and protect the crops from wind. Each crop had it's niche at a different level on the mountain depending on it's soil, water and climate needs. Llamas and alpacas were used to transport the goods.
Cusco is a one hour flight from Lima and is 3400 meters above sea level. The stores at the the airport sell oxygen shots, high altitude pills and raw coca leaves to help acclimate.
Cusco is a smallish city of red roofed abodes surrounded by mountains.
When we arrived to the B&B, Carlos, our host, gave us some coca tea to help adapt to the lack of oxygen. Coca stimulates blood flow and provides energy for the body to transport oxygen and carbon dioxide more efficiently.
The house was decorated with antique colonial artifacts and it felt like I slipped back a century in time. By the kitchen there was a wall of Inca farming tools and a herb garden. Carlos introduced me to a couple of the popular herbs that are only found in Peru. Huacatay (black mint), my favorite, is very common in stews and meat sauces and tastes like cilantro, basil, ginger, lime and lemon grass... all in one. Most of the herbs used in cooking here are also used a medicinal teas.
A very tranquil atmosphere... no electronics, just plants, high ceilings and large windows.
The streets of Cusco.
La Plaza de Armas.
I was warned to not eat any of the food joints near the main plaza, because of tourist prices, but I was curious to see what a touristy pizza was all about.
A table for the tourists displaying Inca cooking ingredients and utensils. Worth my visit to the restaurant.
The pizza was cheesy and pricey.
Adjacent to the plaza are alleyways full of textile and craft shops. Sadly, most of the items are not genuine and are produced in factories in Lima or Bolivia. I've spent most of my time cruising the streets trying to figure out who and what is genuine.? Sellers bombard you in the plaza center with paintings and clothing, and tell you that they made it and are a student or a craftsman, but minutes later another person comes to you with the same story and same product. Some women use their children or carry around a baby goat with them as a 'tool' of advertisement. I have found some cool genuine handmade products is at the hippy shops where the dudes got dreads and drums.
Oh, Jessica... :)
Never had this combo before - potato, hard boiled egg, lettuce, olive and cheese sauce.
Most of the local restaurants have a traditional 'menu' special that offers a juice drink, appetizer, hearty soup, main course (segundo) with meat and rice, and dessert all for around 3 to 4 bucks. This option is the best way to get your belly full and grab a taste of local foods.
In this fashion - simple cuisine is energizing and sustainable.
To the San Pedro market!
My first few steps into the San Pedro market my nose hairs and taste buds flared up to the aroma of fried guinea pig, spicy chicken stews, fresh fruits and cheeses.
Jessy had her heart set on a few glasses of fresh yogurt.
That's the stuff.
How about some pickled snake? I was tempted to cook a Peruvian snake for dinner, but when I took a closer look at the stand I realized that all the goods were not for eating, but for working magic... aka the art of brujo. The practice of brujo is the practice of power and sorcery, similar to voodoo. The other path is that of healing, humility and strength. In Iquitos 9 out of 10 shamans practice brujo and those shamans are brought to service if one is searching for money, luck, revenge or lust. Since I am not in the need of any of those things I won't bother with the snakes.
Chicken feet, chicken heads, chicken blood, animal carcases, herbs, spell cards, tobacco...
But, the chocolate... now, that's a temptation I cannot resist.
And the cheese, is some of the best I've ever had despite the fact it sits out at room temperature for days.
Caviar. Probably days old too.
Who needs an ice bath?
Cheese :)
Tons of dried grains and corn.
Quinoa by the kilo.
About three quarters of the market is food and the other part is crafts. The same ol' same ol' crafts you'd find anywhere else in Cusco. Same designs, same fabric... all with a different story of creation by the retailers.
To be continued...
Source: http://www.antarcticcowboy.com/2012/10/what-began-as-amazonian-jungle-ride.html
loretta lynn gene kelly zoe saldana zooey deschanel and joseph gordon levitt debra messing ayaan hirsi ali rachel uchitel
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.